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| Quick Reference guide to Optimal Temperatures and Humidity for Common Lizard Species |
What to expect at your appointment:
As part of your reptile pet's physical
exam and consultation, our veterinarian
and staff will take a thorough history
and discuss the ideal caging,
temperature, lighting, humidity, and diet
needs specifically for your species of
pet.
Remember to bring your UV bulb and
fixture with you for UV output testing
and a fresh dropping from your pet for
parasite screening.
As part of your reptile pet's physical
exam and consultation, our veterinarian
and staff will take a thorough history
and discuss the ideal caging,
temperature, lighting, humidity, and diet
needs specifically for your species of
pet.
Remember to bring your UV bulb and
fixture with you for UV output testing
and a fresh dropping from your pet for
parasite screening.
What is gut loading?
Gut loading refers to feeding your reptile's prey a nutritious diet prior to
feeding them to your reptile. Most insects are nutritionally deficient with the
exception of their stomach contents. At least 3 days prior to feeding your
reptile an insect, feed the insect a nutritious diet:
Crickets: dry dog, cat, or fish food
Mealworms: oatmeal and Tums
Superworms: oatmeal and Tums
Waxworms: oatmeal and Tums
Earthworms: high quality soil/mulch and Tums
Cockroaches: red, orange, yellow, or purple
vegetables
Provide water for your insects with carrot or apple
slices.
Gut loading refers to feeding your reptile's prey a nutritious diet prior to
feeding them to your reptile. Most insects are nutritionally deficient with the
exception of their stomach contents. At least 3 days prior to feeding your
reptile an insect, feed the insect a nutritious diet:
Crickets: dry dog, cat, or fish food
Mealworms: oatmeal and Tums
Superworms: oatmeal and Tums
Waxworms: oatmeal and Tums
Earthworms: high quality soil/mulch and Tums
Cockroaches: red, orange, yellow, or purple
vegetables
Provide water for your insects with carrot or apple
slices.
**What is a humidity box?
A humidity box is simply a tupperware-type container that is about 1/2
to 2/3 full of damp sphagnum moss (do not use peat moss) with an
access hole cut in the lid or side. Peat moss can be purchased in the
indoor gardening department at your local home improvement store,
such as Lowe's. The box is designed to mimic the micro-climate many
desert reptile species seek in their natural habitats by burrowing down
in the ground to find a more humid environment to assist with proper
skin shedding and homeostasis. Place the box in an area of the cage
that is in the middle of your pet's temperature range. Change the
sphagnum moss regularly (every 2 weeks) to prevent mold and
bacterial growth. Be sure the box is large and sturdy enough for your
reptile to comfortably get inside. Do not over-moisten the moss to the
point that there is standing water in the box.
This is an excellent way to facilitate a healthy skin shedding in lizards
and snakes and prevent retained skin and spectacles.
A humidity box is simply a tupperware-type container that is about 1/2
to 2/3 full of damp sphagnum moss (do not use peat moss) with an
access hole cut in the lid or side. Peat moss can be purchased in the
indoor gardening department at your local home improvement store,
such as Lowe's. The box is designed to mimic the micro-climate many
desert reptile species seek in their natural habitats by burrowing down
in the ground to find a more humid environment to assist with proper
skin shedding and homeostasis. Place the box in an area of the cage
that is in the middle of your pet's temperature range. Change the
sphagnum moss regularly (every 2 weeks) to prevent mold and
bacterial growth. Be sure the box is large and sturdy enough for your
reptile to comfortably get inside. Do not over-moisten the moss to the
point that there is standing water in the box.
This is an excellent way to facilitate a healthy skin shedding in lizards
and snakes and prevent retained skin and spectacles.
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Why is UV lighting important?
Most reptiles require ultraviolet light exposure (specifically, UV-B) in order
to absorb calcium from their food. A chemical reaction in the skin produces
Vitamin D3, which then finds its way to the gut and acts as a key to the door
that allows calcium to enter the blood stream. Without Vitamin D, calcium
can not be absorbed from the gut.
As part of every reptile exam our staff will test the UV-B output of your
bulb(s). We find that the majority of "UV" bulbs do not produce a sufficient
amount of UV-B to stimulate the production of Vitamin D3. We occasionally
find bulbs that produce too much UV-B, which can lead to sunburns and
eye injury. Some reptiles are more dependent upon UV-B to produce
Vitamin D than others. Our doctors and staff will advise you on the needs
for your specific species of reptile during your exam. Milwood Animal Clinic
is the only Kalamazoo animal hospital testing bulbs for UV-B output utilizing
Solartech's Solarmeter UVB Meter.
We recommend a mercury vapor bulb to provide both heat and UV-B
radiation. Go to our online store and click on "Reptile Supplies" to see the
brand of mercury vapor bulb we recommend.
To learn more about ultraviolet lighting for reptiles, go to
www.uvguide.co.uk.
To learn more about Metabolic Bone Disease (caused by a lack of UV-B
exposure) go to www.anapsid.org/mbd.html.
Most reptiles require ultraviolet light exposure (specifically, UV-B) in order
to absorb calcium from their food. A chemical reaction in the skin produces
Vitamin D3, which then finds its way to the gut and acts as a key to the door
that allows calcium to enter the blood stream. Without Vitamin D, calcium
can not be absorbed from the gut.
As part of every reptile exam our staff will test the UV-B output of your
bulb(s). We find that the majority of "UV" bulbs do not produce a sufficient
amount of UV-B to stimulate the production of Vitamin D3. We occasionally
find bulbs that produce too much UV-B, which can lead to sunburns and
eye injury. Some reptiles are more dependent upon UV-B to produce
Vitamin D than others. Our doctors and staff will advise you on the needs
for your specific species of reptile during your exam. Milwood Animal Clinic
is the only Kalamazoo animal hospital testing bulbs for UV-B output utilizing
Solartech's Solarmeter UVB Meter.
We recommend a mercury vapor bulb to provide both heat and UV-B
radiation. Go to our online store and click on "Reptile Supplies" to see the
brand of mercury vapor bulb we recommend.
To learn more about ultraviolet lighting for reptiles, go to
www.uvguide.co.uk.
To learn more about Metabolic Bone Disease (caused by a lack of UV-B
exposure) go to www.anapsid.org/mbd.html.
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*What is a Basking Temp?
Your reptile's enclosure should have a gradient of temperatures within
light (in most cases, a heat and UV-B producing bulb), and a "cool"
spot on the opposite end. Because reptiles are exothermic
(cold-blooded), they cannot warm themselves internally or cool off by
sweating so they must move their bodies to warmer and cooler spots as
the possible temperatures in between the basking temperature and the
cool spot will allow your pet to choose which temperature is best for it at
any given time. If you see your pet spending most of its time in the cool
spot, your temperature gradient may be too hot and if your pet spends
the entire day under the basking light, your temperature gradient is
probably too cool. Always have at least two thermometers in your pet's
enclosure: one at the cool end and one under the basking light (at the
level or height where your pet basks). Check these temperatures
frequently to maintain an optimal temperature gradient.
Your reptile's enclosure should have a gradient of temperatures within
light (in most cases, a heat and UV-B producing bulb), and a "cool"
spot on the opposite end. Because reptiles are exothermic
(cold-blooded), they cannot warm themselves internally or cool off by
sweating so they must move their bodies to warmer and cooler spots as
the possible temperatures in between the basking temperature and the
cool spot will allow your pet to choose which temperature is best for it at
any given time. If you see your pet spending most of its time in the cool
spot, your temperature gradient may be too hot and if your pet spends
the entire day under the basking light, your temperature gradient is
probably too cool. Always have at least two thermometers in your pet's
enclosure: one at the cool end and one under the basking light (at the
level or height where your pet basks). Check these temperatures
frequently to maintain an optimal temperature gradient.
